|Remember the old Red Oil that came in the little bottle. It's being manufactured again by Steve Street. |
Contact him at:
|A. Dremel tool w/wire brush |
B. Pin vise and bit (.050)
C. Small flat head screwdriver
D. Needle oiler
E. Xacto knife
|For a little Extra Juice, try John Balson's |
Contact John at:
|A. Gear plate assembly |
B. Chassis frame
C. Gear plate clamp
E. Idler gear
F. Tyco 440 rear wheels
w/Hiester “low” silicones
G. Aurora Hot Rod or A/FX axles
H. Tyco 440 front tires and wheels
I. Commutator brushes
J. Crown gear
K. Pickup shoes
L. Pick up shoe springs
|1.Disassemble chassis and put parts in a box (fig. A). Soak non-rubber and non-chrome parts in camp fuel (cup) or spray with brake cleaner. |
2.Blow with compressed air, or let dry.
3.Wire brush all contact points, including: Both ends of PU shoes (fig. B, A&B), com- mutator spring tops (fig.C, circled),PU shoe retainers (fig.D, circled) armature commutator plate (fig.E, A), and axle races.
|1.With crown gear inplace, push rear axle through axle holes (start from the left side of chassis) |
2.Press on rear wheels. Do not exceed 1 5/16” wide.
3.Press on front wheels (1 5/16” W). Use PU shoe springs or washers to space.
(Note: It is very important to have straight axles and true wheels. This may require trying several of each to get the best results. Patience!)
4.From the bottom of chassis frame, use the pin vise and drill bit to push the last bend in the commutator brush springs (fig. A, circle) up, and flat. (Note: back up the spring with your finger from the inside of the chassis). Be Cautious!
5.Rub both sides of commutator brushes on cardboard till clean.
6.Install commutator brushes and magnets.
7.Oil gear plate in 7 places:
8.Oil 4 axles races.
|1.Finish assembling chassis. |
2.Lower body screw posts as far as possible.
3.Super glue guide pin to chassis.
4.Mount chassis to body.
5.Bend guide pin forward slightly
6.Idle car at slow speed for a few minutes
Note: Two tricks in assembling.